With the same cross-section, a hole B rim is stronger than a hole c rim; and an even smaller inch rim is stronger still. They break from fatigue. Fatigue comes from flex. Flex comes from looseness and stress. Most decent spokes break, when they break, at the bend where they go into the hub. A less obvious bend, only now and then but often enough to mention, is where it exits the spoke nipple. Modern steel spokes are about a thousand times better and stronger than the spokes of yore.
Ride softer tires, which absorb stresses before they reach the spokes. Softer usually means bigger usually means wider rim, and then you have all of these factors in your favor. Ride the widest rims you can tolerate, with as many spokes as you can stand, and protect the rim with the biggest softest tire your frame will fit.
Item added to your cart. Check out Continue shopping. Broken Spokes and Wobbly Wheels Snapping spokes is a thing of the past. Here are some tips-- 1. How rim stiffness affects wobble The lighter the rim, the fewer the spokes, the greater the spoke tension, the more magnificent the wobble.
How spoke count affects wobble The more spokes the less dramatic the wobble when one breaks. This was the case with my wifes mid-range full suspension Liv Intrigue trail bike, and over time the spokes had just reached a point where they were failing one by one very regularly.
When getting a wheel repaired or built new by your local bike shop or wheel builder, make sure you discuss with them what will work best for you, your type and frequency of riding and your weight. The wheel was also hand built by the mechanic who is an experienced mountain bike wheel builder, which does also help. The crucial thing however is that the wheel has all new fresh spokes, properly tensioned, which are no longer all well on their way to failing.
This is the core part of the solution for almost all cases of mountain bikes regularly breaking spokes. As mentioned above, when getting a wheel built or repaired, make sure you discuss with your bike shop wheel builder the type of spokes they recommend for your style of mountain biking, and taking into account your weight heavier or more aggressive riders benefitting from stronger spokes.
If you find them less than helpful, or unable to recommend a particular type of spoke for your wheel build, go elsewhere — your mountain bike wheels are too important to be built or repaired by someone who knows very little about wheel strength and reliability.
Aside from the most common culprit for regularly breaking spokes, you can absolutely break one or multiple spokes or spoke nipples of course through other means. As we all know, mountain biking usually involves thrashing your bike to some degree over rough terrain! Whenever I replaced a spoke I marked it and I confirmed that it was always the original spokes that were snapping.
I upgraded to a new set of wheels and haven't had any trouble since. I'd suggest having a good hard look at the bike and either buying new wheels or upgrading to a better quality bike. Wheels are a pretty safe investment because you can transfer them to a new similar bike relatively simply.
Spokes usually break from fatigue. Hitting things hard might dent the rim, or cause a spoke that is about to break from fatigue to fail, but it won't in itself fatigue rims. Otherwise the chances are that the wheel just wasn't built very well. After all most cheap bike never actually go very far, so that fatigue life might not be the most pressing issue for the manufacturer. If the rim is not very worn and has no obvious dents, you may be able to get the wheel rebuilt by a good bike shop.
When the wheel went from true to not true, some spokes lost tension while others gained tension. Otherwise the wheel would have remained true. And uneven spoke tension is the recipe for broken spokes. That said, jumping curbs is generally not the toughest thing spokes have to endure.
That title goes to hard acceleration in first gear, or to braking if you use disk brakes: The torque needs to be transmitted through spokes that are almost at a right angle to the torque forces that they need to transmit, so the spokes experience much greater differential stresses than you might assume if you only looked at the transmitted torque.
A wheel generally becomes untrue when some of its spokes loose all tension during acceleration or braking. This loss of tension allows the nipples to turn erratically, worsening the situation. And once a spoke looses all tension regularly, its head is soon to break off due to fatigue. Your spokes may be damaged beyond repair, but in my experience it is of utmost importance that all spokes have very similar tension. This is more important than the wheel being perfectly true.
My son purchased a "Eurobike" of sorts a couple of months back and brought it on the week-long group bike tour we took last week. The bike is branded by a purportedly good outfit in California, and built of course in China. It is a inch unsuspended hybrid, with a variable-speed NuVinci rear hub and a Shimano generator front hub.
In general it appears to be a good quality bike. Before the ride started it was discovered that one spoke was broken on the rear wheel and a repair was effected , and during the last day of the ride a second spoke broke. Both spokes broke at the nipple. On examination of the wheel it could be seen that the large-diameter hub and the 2-cross pattern caused the spokes to approach the rim at an angle substantially off from 90 degrees, causing quite obvious bending of the spoke where it enters the nipple.
The tendency to break at this point was likely further abetted by undersized, poor quality spokes. I am guessing that the wheel will need to be relaced, though we will see what the bike shop and manufacturer say after my son gets back to California. It's vaguely possible that the rim was drilled for the off-angle nipples but the wheel was built wrong, with the odd nipples in the even holes or some such.
In any event, heavier gauge, better quality spokes are needed. Other than the spoke problem -- and an associated problem with the enclosed chain while servicing -- the bike performed admirably, handling some very substantial hills.
I have a Giant road bike from the late nineties, which hung unused in the garage for ten years. When I started riding it again seriously a few years ago I snapped quite a few spokes, perhaps a spoke or two a month. The broken spokes were on the drive side of the rear wheel of course; the spokes on that side necessarily have higher tension because of the offset of the hub flanges.
The owner of the LBS said that my problem was "cheap Taiwanese spokes". He predicted that eventually I would have replaced all the drive-side spokes with replacement spokes from his shop naturally and then I would no longer have the problem, and that's exactly what happened. I wish I'd changed them all at once, instead of one at a time. So for those with similar problems, it's possible that the manufacturer built the wheels with inferior spokes to save a little bit of money, and that all you need to do is change the spokes.
Are the spokes breaking at the nipple? I had this problem, wheel was rebuilt with too short spokes. Maybe the old hoop was asymmetric and they swapped everything to a symmetric hoop.
Ibis to WTB kom not sure. I keep replacing the spokes and they keep snapping right down the line the old, not new , one snapped just sitting there after I just finished.
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